Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
